Water Filtration Installation
Add whole-house or under-sink filtration for taste, odor or sediment.
A softener swaps the minerals that cause scale for sodium or potassium. When it works, fixtures stay cleaner and appliances last longer. When it stops, scale returns quickly.
Test the water first. A hardness test tells you whether you need one.
A softener tank holds resin beads that are charged with sodium or potassium. As hard water flows through, the beads grab calcium and magnesium and release sodium in exchange. When the beads are full, the unit regenerates by flushing them with brine from a second tank and then rinsing.
The result is softer water throughout the house. It does not filter out bacteria, chlorine or chloramine, which is a different job.
Start with a hardness test. Hard water is measured in grains per gallon, and a test shows where yours falls. Water hardness can differ by location in the city system, so test your own tap.
If the number is high, a softener helps. If it is low, spending money on one may not make sense. A plumber can run a test and explain the result.
EPCOR, the local water utility, draws from groundwater wells rather than a river or reservoir, and its water quality reporting for Sun City West lists hardness in the 4 to 12 grains per gallon range, moderately hard to hard. EPCOR publishes a water quality report every year that you can read.
A softener does not remove disinfectant residual from the water. If taste or smell is the concern, see water filtration installation.
A softener has a unit cost and an installation cost, and both depend on the house.
Ask for the capacity and the hardness it was sized for, and whether a test was done.
A softener is installed on the main line past the meter and ahead of the water heater, so every tap gets treated water. It also needs a drain for the flush cycle, an electrical outlet and a place for the brine tank. Outdoor hose bibs are often left on hard water.
A bypass valve lets the plumber isolate the unit for service. Check the local rules on where the discharge goes, since some areas have limits on brine discharge.
Common problems include a unit that does not regenerate, a brine tank that fills too high or forms a salt bridge, and resin beads that have aged out. A salt bridge is a crust of hardened salt that leaves a gap between the salt and the water. Breaking it up solves the problem.
Check the salt level monthly and top it off. Resin typically lasts many years, and a unit that stops softening may need new resin or a valve repair. Have the plumber say whether fixing it or replacing it is the better deal.
Most softeners use sodium chloride salt. Potassium chloride works the same way and is an option for people who want to avoid adding sodium, though it usually costs more. Either one is loaded into the brine tank, and the unit draws on it during regeneration.
Use the salt type the manufacturer recommends. Pellets and crystals are common, and a salt with fewer impurities leaves less residue in the tank. Keep an eye out for a mushy layer at the bottom of the brine tank, which is a sign it needs cleaning.
Softeners are rated by grain capacity. A larger number means more hardness removed between regenerations, but bigger is not always better. The right size depends on household size and water hardness.
If you already bought a unit, such as a 48,000 grain model, say so. A contractor can confirm it fits your plumbing and install it. If you have not bought yet, ask for a recommendation first.
The control valve is a frequent culprit, and it can be damaged by movers or by construction work. A cut or pinched regeneration line also stops the cycle. Brine tank problems, such as salt bridges or blocked injectors, are other causes.
If something has fallen into the brine tank, mention it. Retrieving an object can be a small job but needs care so the tank is not damaged.
Add whole-house or under-sink filtration for taste, odor or sediment.
Descale, flush, repair or replace a tankless unit.
Replace a failed tank heater and choose the right size, fuel and location.
The softened water carries a little sodium or potassium. Anyone on a low-sodium diet may want to ask a doctor, and some install a separate drinking tap.
It depends on use and hardness. Check the brine tank monthly and keep it above the water line.
Common causes are no salt, a salt bridge, a failed valve or worn resin. A plumber can check each.
No. That requires carbon filtration or similar.
The line is answered around the clock. Put the softener in bypass or close its supply valve if it is leaking, then call.
Often yes. Give the brand and model on the call, and the dispatcher can confirm it ahead of the visit.
In many cases the valve can be replaced without a new tank. A contractor can tell whether the tank and resin are still good.
Yes. It needs a place to discharge during regeneration, along with power and a bypass. A contractor checks these during installation.
Common reasons are an empty brine tank, a clogged injector, a stuck valve or a bypass left open. A visit can find which one it is.
Call and ask about a hardness test. It tells you whether a softener is worth it.
Service area centered on Sun City West and nearby Maricopa County cities.